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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.